Srisailam – a travelogue:

Srisailam kshetram is in Nallamala Ranges of the Eastern Ghats running like a spine through the Andhra states. Although not very high in altitude, they offer vast labyrinths of landscapes making out breathtaking sceneries.  More importantly they host dense forests and function as virtual lungs of Andhra states.

Nallamala in the same name is referred through the bygone centuries in literature and epigraphy. This region was under the territorial control of powerful ancient dynasties of Satavahanas, Kakathiyas and Pallavas. 

Vijayanagar Kings and Kondaveedu Reddy kings in later periods were also the ardent worshipers of Sri Mallikarjunam.  People virtually in thousands throng to this pilgrimage centre daily.

Srisailam as a vibrant centre of Andhra, down the centuries, is an iconic identity of the region.

Mallikarjunam is eulogized as Thalai-marudhu – the first marudhu among the three holy saivite places in Tamil Saivite tradition.

Why is this hill range called ‘Nalla’ malai?

Nalla apart from denoting ‘good quality’ also perhaps means the colour black. For example ‘nalla milagu’ means black pepper.

What about 'Nallaennai' and 'nallapaambu'?

Perhaps the adjective, 'Nalla' indicates the fullest properties of the reference. 

As per the study of optics, black colour is the result of full absorption of light by an object.   

River Krishna originating from the Western Ghats while crisscrossing through these Nallamala ranges offers scenic wonders.

Perhaps this river is next only to Bramhaputhra with a masculine name in India?

Interestingly the name ‘Krishna’ also means just the black colour.

Hence the Sanskrit name Krishna swamy means the Tamil Karuppa saamy!

   

Nallamala being one of the most ancient geological formations combined with the zigzagging Krishna River is a Geological panorama and would offer an impressive case study on the metamorphosis of ancient rock structures:

A gargantuan ghat in the distant opp bank;

locally made coracles used for fishing;

A pebble collector's paradise!

Rock balancing! zen art? 

Engineering wonders across the River;

Mallikarjuna swamy temple in Srisailam - in the midst of Nallmala ranges and on the banks of River Krishna is one of the 12 jyothir linga shetrams in India and one of the 276 temples extolled by Tamil Devaaram hymns.

This locality has been a sacred place of worship for many Andhraite and Kannadiga communities as evident from a number of community- choultries for accommodating pilgrims.

The outer walls of the temple are constructed by arranging granite blocks. Each block is designed with a beautiful outer panel with fascinating carvings of historical significance. The numerous carved outer panels depict scenes of battle, equestrian talents and hunting apart from religious narrations. The outer panels alone need elaborate documentation which I doubt exists.

Panels are abundant with equestrian and elephantine depictions; 

Thrilled to spot a fish symbol on the top of the wall here! 

Any Pandya connection?

Parthian archery technique, requiring exemplary equestrian skills - shooting backwards from mounted position;

Killer Damsels with long bows on their prowl! ;

Capital punishment executed by 'Kaluvetram'; 

Outer walls giving a fortress like cover to the temple precincts;

Shivaji Maharaj is attached to this kshetram and he is said to have stayed here for a considerable time.

A grand memorial for Shivaji Maharaj;

A picture gallery inside the memorial showing few turning events in Shivaji's life is all but few are bigger versions of Amarchitra Katha drawings; 

young Shivaji undergoing weapons training!

Sardaar Baji Prabhu Deshpande, one of the legendary commanders of Shivaji, leading with his ambidextrous charge in the famous battle of paval khind - one of the finest rear guard actions in the annals of military history of India;

Shivaji before leaving on a mission;

A Maratha army unit was left behind by Shivaji to protect this place, which stood to the gallant Maratha tradition and fought to the last man while halting an invasion. Those warriors’ descents are said to be still visiting this temple kshetram. 

It is saddening that there is no memorial to honour those fine warriors in this kshetram.

Aadi Sankaracharya said to have composed Sivanandalahiri while staying here;

from Shikareswaram, the highest place in Srisailam;

River Krishna flowing majestically past Srisailam through the Nallamala Ranges;

 

With a muslim autowala from Hyderabad who guided as around;

We, an assorted band of likeminded friends, visited Srisailam via Chennai – Nellur - Ongole – Markapur route. Interestingly the name of the town ‘Ongole’ near the Eastern Coromandal shore line in Seemandhra means Dolphin in ancient Tamil!

Curiously I could’nt spot even a single marudham tree [Terminalia Arjuna] in this place. Pl refer my june 2014 postings on ‘Kundrakkudi, Marudhu Brothers and Marudham trees!’.

Adieu,,,                         
                                                            
                                Jai bolenaath!         Har Har Mahadev!